0:06 I went to boarding school and this was in Cuba. I was born and raised in Cuba. And we had to wear uniforms we didn't like how they fit. So I started altering my uniform. So my classmate asked me hey, can you alter mine as well? I, so it got us kicked out of class because uniform's were considered property of the state. So we are we were actually destroying the state property. But at the same time, I started realizing the power of threads, the power of fashion, the power of how you look. 0:35 Henry Navarro discovered the powerful link between fashion and politics at a young age. Back then he couldn't have predicted that much of his career would be dedicated to studying this relationship. Navarro is a Ryerson Professor specializing in fine arts, film and fashion. He works on site specific fashion projects, which merged public art and fashion design to explore social issues in localized communities worldwide. Right now, Navarro was working to shed light on the influence First Nations had on North American fashion trends that are so prevalent today. 1:10 So one thing that I'm working directly on right now is about the contribution of First Nation makers and designers really, to what we consider now dress and fashion from the North American perspective. Furs wear for example, which is when you think about the contribution of North America to global fashion, we have to think automatically sportswear, right, so you think like t shirts, jeans, but also like podcast, boat shoes, those type of things. But actually, those items only exist because because of the influence of the First Nation communities and the the kind of concept that they maintained for centuries. And that is something very deeply embedded in the, you know, style and fashion practices in North America. However, we don't we don't acknowledge that we don't, we don't give credit to that. 2:07 The link between fashion and politics traces back to ancient Greece. In that time period, people were very vocal in their opinions on the systems of government. One of the ways certain individuals expressed their views or ideas of status was by dressing differently from the general population. The relationship between politics and fashion still exists and is even more apparent now due to globalization, and developments in communication, such as social media. 2:36 With social movements on the rise, using fashion as a vehicle for political messaging and ideas is especially powerful today. There have been numerous moments in history when fashion has been used to band individuals together under one common goal. One recent example is the #metoo movement. This global movement highlights the impact of sexual violence and has enabled countless women to come forward about their experiences. Dozens of celebrities attended the 2018 Golden Globe Awards, dressed in black as a symbol of their support for the #metoo movement and all that it stands for. The message was received loud and clear. 3:15 Graphic t-shirts with writings on them such as the future is female, are also an example of fashion being utilized for political messaging. Designer Probal Garoun closed his fall 2017 fashion show with a series of feminist t shirts. The shirts displayed various things such as Girls Just Want to Have fundamental rights, we will not be silenced, and yes, we should all be feminists. 3:43 Another recent example of powerful political messaging through the use of fashion was Lady Gaga's power suit at the 2018 Women in Hollywood event. The pop star wore an oversized men's suits designed for a woman. Her bold choice and outfit was significant for many reasons. In her speech, Gaga challenged her audience to redefine what it means to be a woman in Hollywood. She spoke of her experience with sexual assault, and how vital it is for women to voice their beliefs and ideas and fight against those who attempt to silence them. So with choosing to wear a suit, choosing to wear the pants, she took her power back. 4:20 And while fashion can have a strong political impact, that creates an immediate reaction, Henry argues that fashion and politics are actually interconnected through everyday life. Even our relationship with companies as buyers creates an inescapable relationship, 4:36 Fashion and politics are embedded in social life. So, you know, like just just dressing really, every every morning, it is necessarily it's both a political but also you know, like a fashionable approach. So, they are they are deeply interconnected, right? When we think about the fashion industry and their position of power in relationship with so called consumers, there is a political relationship right there. So, anything that has to do with human relationships like it's definitely can be construed as a political situation. That's why fashion cannot escape that. 5:20 Sarah Duke a Ryerson School of Fashion graduate says that using fashion as a means for political messaging is shallow. She says that many who dress with the political message falsely believe they've done their part in creating social and political change. However, Duke says that while fashion can be a great unifier. wearing matching outfits is simply not enough. 5:43 I think it's shallow. I think it's like an easy thing to do to like, wear a t-shirt that says boat or like, it's not, it's not the work. Like you have to put the work in. There was this movement in the UK, where a lot of people were wearing safety pin to denote that they're like a safe person. So if people felt people of color felt uncomfortable, you know, I'm like a white lady, but I've got a safety pin in. 6:13 Political fashion can be more than just an accessory to large movements. What an individual chooses to wear can say a lot about their beliefs and ideas about society, thus creating an everyday political connection. In her collection, Sarah created two graphic t shirts with two contradictory statements. One reads, things are bad, which she created as a reflection of the society we live in. She also created another shirt, which reads things are good. 6:42 So I came up with a t-shirt that just said things are bad. It's like, not okay out there. 6:50 When you look at fashion today, there are various designers seeking to break the mold when it comes to gender stereotypes. These actions are a challenge to the norms of fashion. According to Sarah, there are still many traditional fashion conventions that continue to create a divide between men and women. One example, pockets. 7:10 You know, pockets are always nice. So I always start with pockets, and then move back as not having pockets is sexist, right? Because it is right. So if you're a woman, and your garment has no pockets and you have your period or you have to like go anywhere, you have to bring a purse which sort of like holds you back and like denotes your gender. 7:34 Regardless of what you choose to wear, it denotes a message. The relationship between clothing and politics began long ago and still exists today. Whether we like it or not. This relationship can be subtle. It can also be loud and aggressive like me too, and times up movements. Fashion can have a positive impact within society, as demonstrated by these movements. 8:00 During #metoo various actresses not only wore black, but also spoke of what it represented for them. Actress Alison Brie said, I am wearing black to stand in solidarity with all of the women who have come out about being sexually harassed and abused. Similarly, Eva Longoria spoke of the importance behind this movement. She said this isn't a female issue. It's a power issue. And so saying times up to ending the abuse of power and recognizing the women that come forward, they kicked that door open for this conversation to happen. 8:34 And that's where significance comes to play. Though some may believe simply wearing black isn't truly doing the work, it's still sends a distinct message. For viewers watching the Golden Globes. Every time an actress wearing black showed up on screen. They knew what it represented. Fashion is capable of powerful messaging. It has been used as a vehicle for political statements and ideas in the past, and will no doubt continue to be used in the future. In a time when people are realizing the importance of their voice and the different ways that can express their voice. there is value in recognizing the inevitable relationship between fashion and politics. For RSJ Radio. I'm Regina Dixon, 9:17 and I'm Taline Loschiavo.